Monday, March 15, 2010

Park Avenue Wine Bar & Merchant

My friend Donna, at work, was very excited to share with me a discovery of a pair of new restaurants in downtown Barrington. She had not been there yet but told me where they were and encouraged me to try them out or at least the Park Avenue Wine Bar & Merchant and share my experience with the world via my blog. I thought this to be an excellent idea and she had me at "Wine Bar." When this Friday arrived I told Ginger of the plan to try this new restaurant and she said I had her at "Wine Bar." As the afternoon wore on and it got closer to 3:00 PM I called Park Avenue and asked if reservations were required. I was told no but if I wanted to make a reservation then they would certainly take one. After securing a reservation for 6:30 PM I thanked the young lady on the other end of the line and hung up. I found their number on their website and since I have made the reservation I use some time to explore their site. They advertise their neighboring establishment as well (McGonigal's Pub) and I discover that they share the same owner (Steve Berry) and the same entrance way. I caught an address on Cook street and made a mental note of it.
Ginger and I get into our car at approximately 6:00 PM for what we believe to be a very short road trip. Quite frankly according to Mapquest the trip is less than six miles (5.8) and just over thirteen minutes. Piece of cake. We should be there in plenty of time. Not so fast Skippy! It is raining and after all this is a Friday night at rush and the two lane roads leading into downtown Barrington are generally crowded at this time of night. We have no idea how crowded. We are stuck in stop and go traffic with a light rain coming down and I can see the line of tail lights flashing brightly repeatedly for many blocks ahead as drivers put on their brakes when they move only a few feet before they must brake again. The digital clock on my dash advertises the passing minutes in a green glow of the dash LED and I tell Ginger that we aren't going to make our reservation. I also realize that the mental note I made only hours before is nothing but a dimming memory and I have no idea where the restaurant is except for the general vicinity of downtown Barrington. I make a right on Station Street (don't ask me why) and start to look for Cook Street (don't ask why about that either) We spy Cook Street and I take a quick left. And start to look for the restaurant. Little do I know that if I don't make the U-turn I'm about to make I would see McGonigal's Pub on the right....but nope I declare a conviction to Ginger that it must be the other way and turn around. I drive all of one block and realize that we are driving into a residential section and I spin around again.... This is getting crazy.... the windshield washers make a swoop,swoop thump, thump sound and I realize that I have passed our Restaurant as Ginger calls out "Park Street!" and I now turn right onto Lake Cake Road. Ginger tells me to take a right onto Hwy 14 and tells me that it will lead to, I don't remember where, but I know that can't be right and say so as we begin to head back to Palatine. A quick look at the dash.... 6:35 PM...Missed the reservation and now we can only hope we will still have a table when we arrive. I make a left turn into a small parking lot and get back onto Hwy 14 going west and realize there is no way we are going to make the turn onto Lake Cook Road as the traffic is all backed up and stop and go. I continue on Hwy 14 west and turn left on Hough Street to go back to Lake Cook Road but not before the rail road crossing gates close and open a couple of times and we watch a Metra train head northwest out of Barrington. Left on Lake Cook Road and right on Park avenue puts us right at the entrance to McGonigal's Pub and Park Avenue Wine Bar. It's still raining softly and I drop Ginger at the front door so she can secure our reservations. I look at the dash ......6:45 PM. There are no parking spots immediately in front of the restaurant but there are spots a building or two down. This is a narrow parking lot just off the roadway and I take a spot near the end of the street and before it curves and becomes Spring Street. Just as I turn off the car and step out into the street the rain intensifies to a steadier driving rain as opposed to the soft drizzle of the earlier drive. I jog to the sidewalk and along the sidewalk devoid of any overhead cover to the steps that lead to the restaurant entrance.
The entrance to the restaurant is up a couple of stairs and through a doorway into a large vestibule. To the right down a stair or two is McGonigal's Pub and up a short ramp on the left front are the glass doors of the Park Avenue Wine Bar. There seems to be overflow out the door and a few people stand around the host and hostess station just inside and to the right of the doors. I look for Ginger in the crowd but she is nowhere to be seen. I turn to go back down the ramp to look in the pub next door and Ginger emerges from the ladies room. I'm holding my glasses and shake the water off of them and push through the crowd at the door with Ginger in tow and stop to let the host know we are there. The room is crowded and I can see there are not a lot of tables. To our left front is a large bar forming an arc that actually encroaches on the floor space and tables for two are on the opposite wall on the right. It seems the tables are too close to the bar and people passing between the bar and the tables almost seem to have to turn sideways to squeeze by. We are waved forward by a young lady with a couple of menus and motioned to a table along the wall opposite the bar. I know I would feel claustrophobic and Ginger taps the hostess on the shoulder and calls out above the din and conversation buzz to ask if we can have the table we see in the back next to the window. She says she will need to ask and leaves us standing in front of the bar and I can see that the space reserved for tables is actually quite small. The hostess returns quickly and with a nod gestures for us to follow her to a table for two where we want to sit.
We sit down and are greeted immediately by our server who introduces herself as Michelle. She makes us feel comfortable as she explains that the wine list is on the back of the menu. It is an impressive wine list with every major wine growing region in the world represented. Michelle recommends the Buehler Vineyards Chardonnay for Ginger while I select the Silver Palm Cabernet Sauvignon. I don't know either wine but I do know the area they are from and recognize the California pedigree. In fact most of the North Coastal area family owned wineries are small case lot producers that have to compete with the big boys so their stuff has to be good. The Buehler Chard that Ginger is drinking earned a solid 91 from Wine Spectator and she is enjoying it. My Cab is beautiful with wonderful aroma. It has hints of currant jelly and up front taste on the palette with no noticeable harsh finish. There is no tannin assault on the back of the tongue. If it were chocolate I would say it melts in your mouth. If it were scotch I would describe it as smooth. I'm really enjoying my first sips. Ginger and I both remark about the level of noise. The ceiling has a high industrial type look, painted black, and the voices echo about and bounce off of walls and ceiling. The furniture and bar are black with stainless or brushed steel accents. Ginger and I have to talk at slightly louder than our normal speaking voice to hear each other but we grow accustomed to it quickly. As I continue to sip at my wine Michelle returns to our table and we tell her we would like to order the Oysters Escabeche with Melon Salsa. Their appetizer menu has some really interesting items and I would like to try them all but we choose the oysters since they are a favorite for Ginger and me. I notice on the menu that the number of oysters is listed at five and suggest to Michelle that five can't be divided by two easily and she catches on instantly.... "Do you want me to put another one on the plate?" and I grin and nod. Ginger and I trade glasses and taste each others wine and swap back before our oysters arrive. The plate is set down by a runner and there are only five and not the sixth oyster promised. We wait a moment to get Michelle's attention but she is busy with a table of new arrivals. We go ahead without the extra oyster but they are good.... Ginger likes them better than I do and it may be because the heat of the chili the oysters marinated in overwhelms me but I do taste the roasted melon which I enjoy. In no time we are staring at five empty half shells and the runner is back to reclaim the plate but before he does I motion to Michelle who spots the problem right away and before she can finish her apology I tell her it's okay and we will go ahead and order our dinner. She pulls out her pad and hovers her pencil over the paper. Ginger goes first and orders the Plantain Encrusted Ahi Tuna. We spotted it on the menu earlier and I try to convince Ginger that the plantain doesn't taste like banana but she is suspicious. I tell Ginger to trust me and that plantains are closer in taste to potatoes than bananas so she asks Michelle to describe a plantain.... and she uses the word banana to Ginger and I have to jump in to insist that it won't taste like a banana, "trust me!" I order the duck breast with truffled polenta. I love truffled potatoes so this is going to be good. Michelle tells me that they recommend nothing beyond medium on the duck breast and I order it medium rare. Well done duck is tough and stringy so I know Michelle is giving good advice to customers. She finishes writing down the order and we motion for a refill in both glasses. I need to stop here and tell you that there are none of those stupid little mini carafes at Park Avenue. The wine is brought to you in a half filled, generous sized, glass. I'm grateful for it and I tell Ginger exactly that. After just a short wait a runner brings our dinner to the table. He places a plate in front of Ginger and then one in front of me. The tuna is already sliced and fanned out on the plate next to a sweet potato chorizo tamale atop the corn husk it was prepared in. The sear is perfect and the tuna rare but warm in the middle. Ginger is happy and I turn my attention to a portion of duck breast also already sliced and perched atop the polenta and beside red cabbage and orange demiglace. I cut a small piece of my duck and taste it and it is absolutely delicious. It is more medium than rare but I'm fine with it. I think my eyes must have rolled back in my head because Ginger asks, "How is it?" I tell her how good it is and I ask her about her meal and she loves it and swears she tastes no banana (told you so). I'm curious about the tamale and I ask her about it and she offers some to me. I'm not a sweet potato fan but this is really good. I can eat this and I would love to have the recipe. I turn my attention back to my dinner and try the polenta.... Oh wow! That is so good. The portions are not large but appropriate and I am satisfied. Ginger saves some of her tuna and half of the tamale to take home so I know we have had enough to eat.
We are finishing our meal and are greeted by one of the staff (Court of Masters) Sommeliers Tom Kalomiris or Frederic Krohmer. He stops by our table.... I don't know who exactly as I was distracted by my food when he introduced himself to Ginger. I know he's not the owner because I ask him and he says no but he does tell us that he is partly responsible for many of the wines available for sale. Steve Berry the owner is also a CMS Sommelier. I tell him that the wine is outstanding as is the food and we are thrilled that the night was successful despite the weather and traffic obstacles we faced to get here. He thanks us for our visit and we thank him for the hospitality. We signal Michelle that we are ready for our check and she quickly gets it prepared and brings it to our table. We tell her how much we enjoyed the dinner and we learn that she is also the event director for both establishments. I secure her card and I promise to send her a link to my blog. Ginger and I finish our wine and take a quick walk through McGonigal's Pub and I already plan a visit back within the next few weeks to try it.
First and foremost I have to say the Park Avenue Wine Bar & Merchant is one of our more enjoyable dining experiences in the last several months. While it is small it is also comfortable. While it is loud it is also pleasant and while it is cramped it is also friendly. The food is incredible and fine dining worthy at affordable prices. The wine selection rivals any restaurant we have frequented in the last year and the small case lot wines compete with many of the best known names. They offer Ferrari Carano (California) a great wine alongside Louis Latour (France) also a great wine at two very different price points. They have wines from California, Oregon, Washington, Italy, New Zealand, Germany, Spain, Australia, Argentina, France and South Africa. The only hole I see in their representation is Chile. There are good wines and great wines on the list and everything from Champagne to Pinot. If you can't find a glass of wine to suit your taste at Park Avenue Wine Bar you aren't trying. If you weren't planning on trying Park Avenue Wine Bar and Merchant I urge you to change your plans.... you won't be sorry!





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